Image Source: Aeble Cider Shop
In the vibrant world of Scottish cider, where tradition meets innovation, Caledonian Cider have carved a corner they can call their own. Led by the boisterous Ryan Sealey, they have been championing the avant-garde of the cider world with their unique and innovative offerings. With a commitment to using only wild yeast and no other additives, Caledonian Cider Company has gained recognition for their exceptional range of ciders and is pushing the boundaries of what Scottish cider can be. From their annual blend of North and South, to unique single variety ciders, each bottle tells a story of craftsmanship and dedication. Join me as we take a look at what Caledonian Cider has to offer this year.
The Journey of Six Ciders
The Caledonian Cider Company has already unveiled six ciders in their 2023 release, with plans for six more. Let’s delve into the distinct characteristics of each cider and the stories that inspired their creation.
1. North/South – The Annual Blend
Caledonian’s “core range” is represented by their annual blend of North and South. Crafted through a meticulous process, this medium-dry cider features a 50/50 blend of keeved cider made from Somerset bittersweet apples, and dry, barrel-aged cider made from local culinary apples. Originally known as North Shore, the cider underwent a transformation in 2018 due to a poor crop. Apples from Somerset were introduced to ensure an adequate supply, resulting in a name change and label update. The response to this unique blend was overwhelmingly positive, leading to its continued production. North and South serves as a testament to the company’s ability to adapt and experiment, showcasing their expertise in crafting quality ciders.
2. Ceitidh – An Homage to Katy Apples
Ceitidh, a single variety cider, pays homage to the famous Katy desert apple. While Katy apples have gained recognition through heavyweight Thatchers and their single variety ‘Katy’ Release that’s been found in supermarkets for years, Caledonian Cider take a unique approach in three key areas. This full juice, wild-fermented cider is bottled using the pet-nat method, resulting in a fully dry, culinary cider which maintains its fruity and full-bodied nature. By utilising the same apple variety as Thatchers, Caledonian Cider Company showcases their ability to create a distinct cider using a myriad of techniques.
3. Craobh Làn – A Cider Unique to Colder Climates
Craobh Làn, a cider with a twist, can only be crafted in colder climates. While traditional cider makers limit maceration time to avoid the risk of vinegar formation, Caledonian’s Highland location offers a different approach. Harvesting their apples later than their southern counterparts, the company benefits from temperatures that rarely exceed 5°C. This extended maceration period of three months draws out the character from apple skins, pips, and core. To enhance the cider’s maturation, full branches from the orchard’s winter pruning are added with the cider to the cask! This “tree and all” approach gives Craobh Làn a unique flavour profile and colour, highlighting the difficulties of cider making in Scotland and turning them into strengths.
4. High and Dry – Embracing the Sharpest Apples
High and Dry is a cider which challenges the notion that cooking apples are unsuitable for cider production. Caledonian seeks out the most acidic apples, predominantly James Grieve and Bramley, sourced from various gardens around the Black Isle. Ryan says he compares High and Dry to the high acidity commonly found in sparkling wines crafting a sharp cider which in his own words delivers a ‘Tangfastic’ Haribo-like taste. The delicate aroma of High and Dry is preserved by maturing it in Caledonians older, less wood/spirit-driven casks as younger casks can impart a lot of flavour onto the cider masking the delicate balance of a variety of acids found in the cider. This cider goes to broaden the drinkers understanding of ‘acidity’ apples are made of a variety of complex acids each with their own aromas and esters. 80 – 90% is Malic Acid (the apple sourz tasting one) the rest is typically a mixture of Ascorbic Acid (Good old vitamin C!), Tartaric Acid (a predominant acid found in grapes and wines) and Citric Acid (Ala citrus fruit).
Side-note
If you’re ever curious about how much Vitamin C is present in two apples, cut them open and leave them face side up, the one that goes darker faster has less Ascorbic acid. Ascorbic acid is the primary ingredient used to stop decolourisation due to oxidation in all fruit products. Either way, eat your apples they’re still good even if they’ve browned a little!
5. Dearcan Dorcha – Dark Fruits done right
Dearcan Dorcha, meaning “dark berries” in Gaelic, is a unique collaboration between Caledonian and the blackcurrants, lovingly grown by the founder’s mother in Brora. This tips its hat to the trend of fruity ciders that have dominated the market in the last few years, think Strongbow Dark Fruits and Koppaberg. Harvested just before the culinary apples, the blackcurrants are frozen for a week or two to facilitate apple pressing. The resulting juice is then mixed with apple juice, creating a fast-fermenting cider with a vibrant purple hue. Bottled early to capture a high level of fizz, Dearcan Dorcha offers a completely dry and 7% ABV alternative to ‘traditional’ fruit ciders. The resulting cider is exemplary of what fruit co ferments can be and by using full juice, no additives, and quality ingredients creates a delightful drink deserving of its 750ml format.
On fruity ciders
Most fruity ciders you find in the market today aren’t technically classed as ciders, they’re taxed as ‘Ready To Drinks’ (for a number of monotonous taxation reasons). Because these drinks don’t fall under the cider category they are not subject to the 35% Minimum juice content (which many argue is already too low). In fact some of these fruit ciders contain as little as 1% actual juice from fruits, the flavour of them is made of additives and flavourings whilst the ABV and body is made of regular sugar mixed with water.
6. Tha Sin Blasta – A Rare Cider from an Unforgiving Orchard
Tha Sin Blasta, meaning “that is tasty” in Gaelic, is a cider crafted from an orchard, nestled between Kiltarlitty and Drumnadrochit on the shores of Loch Ness. This orchard, originally planted to feed wild boar, is frankly unsuitable for traditional cider making, due to its unfavorable weather conditions, bare to the wind, frost and hailstones. Ryan reckons the orchard only properly fruits every 5 years, but the orchard yields fascinating juice from uncommon apple varieties. In 2023, enough fruit was collected to ferment a variety called Ellisons Orange resulting in a complex, single variety, red fruit-forward cider that deceivingly tastes sweeter than it actually is. This rare cider tells a story of terroir that isnt painted in 7th generation family orchards in the three counties, it is a story of fruit growing in Scotland, and of people working with what they had to survive.
Upcoming Releases: A Glimpse into the Future
While the Caledonian Cider Company has already released six exceptional ciders in 2023, there are more eagerly anticipated bottles yet to come. Among them is “Feel Good Hit of the Summer,” a full bittersweet cider, aged in a Jamaican pot still rum cask. The Islay Cask returns again this year and promises to captivate with its distinct flavours and build on last year’s fan base. Another exciting release to look forward to is “Do it Yerself Fringe,” a culinary version of the innovative Craobh Làn.
Wrapping up
As we conclude our journey through the 2023 bottle releases from the Caledonian Cider Company, I am thoroughly impressed by the craftsmanship and innovation behind each cider. With excellent concept and great execution, Scottish cider takes on a whole new dimension.
I was fortunate enough to meet Ryan and a number of other cider makers at Pressed 2023 (Scotland’s premier cider event). His knowledge and passion blew me away as did his commitment to making good cider for good cider’s sake. Ryan is aware he could charge more for his ciders, but its of no interest to him. Ultimately cider making is a passion to him and not a business and to me something about that makes the cider taste that much better.
The releases this year each tell a story of dedication, creativity, and a deep appreciation for the Scottish landscape and its history as well as the wider world of cider. Whether you’re a cider enthusiast or new to the world of Scottish cider, these releases are sure to leave a lasting impression on your taste buds and on your cider experience.
You can find Caledonian Cider at:
Black Isle Larder – Conan Bridge
The Cat in the Glass – Manchester
Trade
Black Isle / Inverness Direct: Caledonian Cider
Uk wide – RE:Stalk
Scotland & The North – Hardpressed Cider
Over and out.
Written by
Tommy Newbold
Journalist at The Scottish Cider Bulletin
Editorial by
Ivana Ilieva
Editor at The Scottish Cider Bulletin