In the heart of North East Fife, Scotland, lies Naughton Cider Company, an artisanal cidery that weaves together the worlds of cider and champagne, producing a premium beverage that stands in a league of its own. From the moment of hand-picking the finest fruits to the use of champagne oak barrels and methode traditionale, Naughton Cider has unlocked the secrets of cider excellence, captivating connoisseurs with its exceptional flavors and craftsmanship.
A Symphony of Heritage and Expertise
The story of Naughton Cider begins with the family’s historic farm estate, a place where time-honored traditions and a deep connection to the land have been passed down through generations. In the 18th century, the original orchard took root on the estate and was moved later, in the late 19th century, to a one-acre walled garden, providing a sanctuary for apple trees to thrive. For years, the orchards on the estate flourished, bearing witness to the changing seasons, but fell into disrepair in the 1960s.
Enter Peter Crawford, a visionary cider maker and one of the UK’s leading champagne specialists. With over two decades of experience in the world of champagne, Peter’s passion for excellence and his deep appreciation for the nuances of fruit flavors set the stage for a transformational journey. In 2018, drawn by their legacy, Peter embarked on a mission to revive the dormant orchards and awaken their full potential.
Champagne Techniques: 1. Methode Traditionale
Naughton carefully selects the best apples, cherishing the balance of acidity and weight at the optimum moment of harvest. Each apple variety is treated as a masterpiece, vinified separately to preserve its unique essence and create a diverse palette of flavors. Naughton has adopted a plethora of traditional champagne techniques to refine their ciders into artful masterpieces. Among these techniques, Methode Traditionale takes center stage, with primary fermentation (or Vinification as Peter would say) conducted using Champagne yeast strains both in steel and cask. The cider is then aged and blended before being primed with more sugar and bottled for a secondary fermentation to create champagne’s signature effervescence. Bottles are then riddled to allow the yeast to drop into the neck before being disgorged to shoot the yeast out like a bullet. Corks, cages, and labels finish off the product.
Champagne Techniques: 2. Oak Barrels out of retirement
Hand-selected from the finest vignerons in Champagne, these barrels have a storied past and are the second nod to Champagne making, having seen at least two harvests in the prestigious region before entering the cidery. Naughton have a wide range of barrels at their disposal, from 2 to 12-year-old stints in Champagne and ranging in size from small (114L) to beastly (1000L) casks. Peter let me sample some of the varieties he had vinified, showing me the range not just in the apples, but also in how different casks can affect the same juice to create unique flavors.
These barrels alter the cider by imparting the unique compounds and notes of previous fermentations. They also act as a microcosm of life with unique yeasts and lifeforms that interact with the sugars, acids and proteins of the juice, giving birth to new generations for next year’s batch.
Champagne Techniques 3. Sur Lie
After primary fermentation is completed, we reach the third Champagne technique – on Lees aging (AKA Sur Lie). Other cider makers may rack the cider to improve clarity and control the aging process, but by allowing the cider to sit for the lees (a cake of yeast and fruit sediment that falls to the bottom of the cask after fermentation) Naughton is able to pull out deeper and more complex flavors as malolactic fermentation begins. After the yeast completes fermentation, it dies. Yet, within these dormant yeast cells lies an intricate assortment of essential compounds: mannoproteins, polysaccharides, fatty acids, and amino acids. Although their names might appear complex, their contributions are simple.
Mannoproteins enrich the cider’s mouthfeel, aroma and flavour, while mellowing the harshness of tannins. Polysaccharides, which are intricate arrangements of sugar molecules, act as residual sugars, giving body and a platform to hold the flavours of the cider. Fatty acids, enshrouded within the yeast cell walls, heighten aromatic and flavour nuances, while amino acids act in tandem, enhancing sensory profiles and textural qualities. These interactions are known to give the cider a warm brioche flavour and a rich mouth feel.
5 Ideas: A Recipe for Perfection
After showing me around the cidery, Peter invited me into his cottage and we sat at the kitchen table, sampling some of this year’s vintages. As we talked about the notes of each, Peter walked me through his 5 key points which have manifested Naughtons Savoir Faire.
- Hand-Picked Perfection: Choosing only the best fruit to capture the epitome of freshness, crisp acidity, and weight, ensuring a balance that results in outstanding flavors.
- Cold Settling: Emphasizing clarity and purity by allowing the apple must (sedimentation) to settle in cool tanks for 24 hours, paving the way for a clean and pristine juice.
- Temperature Controlled Primary Fermentation: Maintaining a constant temperature of 15°C during primary fermentation to preserve the cider’s freshness and finesse.
- Barrel Fermentation and Aging on Lees: Vinifying each apple variety individually in carefully selected Champagne oak barrels to create a rich and nuanced canvas of flavors.
- Controlled Malolactic Fermentation: Gently promoting the conversion of malic acid to lactic acid, softening the acidity and imparting a creamy, buttery texture to the cider.
A Celebration of Nature and Craftsmanship
As enthusiasts raise a glass of Naughton Cider, they are not only savoring the flavors of exceptional cider, but also toasting to the legacy of Naughton Farm and Peter Crawford’s passion. Naughton Cider stands as a testament to the enduring connection between family, heritage, and the art of cider-making. These are truly celebratory ciders to be cherished for their premium nature and complexity. With every sip, one embarks on a journey that spans generations, embracing nature’s bounty and the finesse of champagne techniques in a cider experience that is truly extraordinary.
You can find Naughton Cider at :
Direct Online : Naughton Cider
St Andrews Wine Company – St Andrews
Luvians Bottleshop – St Andrews
The Urban Grocery – Newport on Tay
Over and out.
Written by
Tommy Newbold
Journalist at The Scottish Cider Bulletin
Editorial by
Ivana Ilieva
Editor at The Scottish Cider Bulletin